A Report from Kochi

My business trips take me to places in and around India and it’s exciting to meet new people and enlighten them on the delicate facets of design. Though my sojourns have been curbed drastically by the company I still managed to sneak in a few days to go to Kochi on a deputation.

I had a tough time digesting the idea of working in a world renowned holiday destination. It was a pathetic feeling to say the least, that I would be ignoring the swaying palms, the flowing backwaters and the gentle breezes. An impossible situation like you’re sentenced to 5 days of imprisonment albeit in a hotel room, all by yourself watching STAR World! Even the gods would have laughed at my apathy.


The warm hospitality was accorded during my journey from the airport to the hotel. During the 45 minute long drive the driver was curiously probing to see where I came from. Not even hesitating to ask me my religion and caste which I would consider to be rude coming from a total stranger. Once at the hotel, the rooms were pretty good and set the tone for a grueling next few days. My day used to begin pretty early as usual until it struck me that I am not in Mumbai and need not worry about catching a train to work. The schedule was much relaxed and a bus would ferry me to and from the hotel. I am so habituated at running for the office, on the first day I landed 30 minutes prior to the arrival of my bus at the bus-stop! I realised unlike Mumbai the concept of ‘catching’ a bus would not work. Life is pretty relaxed and smooth over here.

The menu items in the canteen catered mostly to the meat-eaters. A ‘grasshopper’ like me had to suffice with the choice of a curry, chappati and rice. If I didn’t like what was being served, no problem. I still had to eat it because unlike in Mumbai there were no other eating places around. So walking the tightrope between health and taste and considering the ultimate goal of surviving away from home, I would very hesitatingly put morsels after another in a bid to quench my hunger and live for another day. The evenings though were different.

The hotel where I was put up served sumptuous Indian meals with a dash of Indian classical music every night. There would be 2 musicians on a violin or flute and a mridangam playing pure Carnatic fare. I would be the lone ranger on a table enjoying the music while the august gathering around would be intoxicating themselves. It’s sad because the musicians would look around for appreciation and none would be forthcoming. The funny part was when they would play ‘Vaishnava Janato’ on the violin — the bhajan that was made famous by Gandhiji and I would think they are doing it to vent their frustration. It’s an unlikely place for a bhajan when all are drowning their sorrows under the oceans of alcohol. I noticed they played this number at least once every evening before taking a break.

Anyway the food was good and so was the ambience of the artificial pond with real fishes in it. Except on the last day I saw a cockroach taking a stroll on the wall while I was chewing my delicious Milagu Paneer rolled in a piece of the soft Rumali Roti and I sprang up completely. The stewards were hugely embarrassed at my ‘sting’ operation and had nothing more to say except for a few mumbles and broad smiles. I have no choice but to come back at this place again because I am told Kochi comes to a standstill at the stroke of 8:00pm. It’s not too difficult to understand the predicament of a Mumbai man who is used to making informed choices about everything in life. Just this time he’s biting the bullet and it’s not funny.

When I was in Kochi I would think endlessly about my India and wonder if I was still in the same place. I mentioned ‘my’ India because each individual has a different picture of India in his mind. It’s difficult to fathom this country which is so large and diversified in cultures, languages and traditions, it changes its face every kilometer you travel. A billion souls, many languages, thriving customs and religions, serene landscapes and the one glue that binds us all – the Idea of India. I am going back to Kochi and God’s Own Country.